Unwritten Law

It continues to be the case that whenever I surf, the biggest wave of the day swells up and breaks on top of me. It drives me deep under water and tosses me around down there while it rips my board away. The crashing wave continues to tumble me around as I try to relax and save my breath. Nothing to do but wait for it to be over and then follow the leash to the surface. At least you hope it is still attached to your floating board because after all that tumbling you have no idea which way is up. It's a little bit scary in a very exciting way.